Nzinga (Impendle) Summary

Our time in Nzinga and the broader Impendle area changed our lives. I was most moved by the poverty of basic goods and services and access and opportunity, and by the richness of warmth, openness, community, pride and culture. They have few of the material things we value so we think they are poor. They have many of the things we should value more, and I think they are very, very rich.
We literally cut and chopped wood every night that was brought to the main "round" in which it was burned in a small open pit to warm us, cook our food, warm our bath and dish washing water. Yet when two people got married multiple cows, goats, chickens were slaughtered, communally cooked and shared along with a literal feast of food for everyone who spend 30 hours or more at the groom's father's house singing, dancing, and eating. Not just family members, mind you, but friends, members of the village community, and even us Americans, "the first white people anyone can remember visiting their village". There are so many stories that I can't even begin without feeling like I'm leaving so much out, so just a few more highlights to go with some photos from above (The Zuma family home/farm, the fire, kettle, and bucket of hot bath water inside the "round", that day's primary school vocabulary words, planting potatoes, Miranda with Amahle):
- The Sangoma who invited my Irish ancestors to connect with her's, then spoke to them and learned they are very pleases that I've returned to my home and revived the stories and spirist of my ancestors.
- The slaughtered cow in pieces on the floor of the main Round (basically their living room floor) that was packed for 24 hours with an average of 40 people singing and dancing while special pieces of the cow were brought out to be cooked and shared. Tomorrow's sacrificial cow standing outside, tied to the fence post awaiting it's fate.
- The wonder with which dozens of children simply stared into the camera, empty of vanity yet full of curiosity about what would happen and the chance to see themselves instantly.
- The resigned matter-of-factness with which the Zulu speak of the bigotry they still face in their own country despite the end of official segregation.
- How, at 2:00AM I so certainly answered "sure. thanks" when passed a communal bucket of home-brewed Zulu beer made from fermented milk and grains (I think), the unforgettable taste, and the instant-too-late realization that I'd just drank after about 100+ people, some of who were certainly at least a little bit sick.
- The woman and her infant girl we picked up near sunset on the side of the road as we were leaving Nzinga for the last time. She was on her way to Impendle, about 20KM away and was walking with her child and a blanket. When we asked her where she was going, she said she was going to the clinic in Impendle for a few days for treatment. The main question she asked us was how to get a job in America since there aren't any around Impendle.
- The way Miranda went from being completely overwhelmed and unsure of her ability to stay the entire time, to crying as we left and promising we'd be back. That was a lot for a 13 year old, and she was absolutely fantastic in making a huge impression on the people she met, and in letting them make an impression on her.